Kaikoura was a 'must-see' according to the guide books and was described as a nature lovers paradise which appealed to us. We wanted to visit the much documented smelly seal colony which could be done independently. We worked our way down the coastal road taking in the scenery on our way. The East Coast road proved to be more exicting than Kaikoura itself for the wildlife! With Mark at the drivers wheel, I was watching the beaches, rocks and coastline carefully for signs of life, and then every so often shouting 'pull over!', so that we could say hello to the NZ fur seals I had spotted. We had lots of photo stops and tea breaks along the route, and were able to enjoy the seals close up, away from the tourist crowds.